HEATING ELEMENT
Heating Element
To heat what is anybody's guess, but it's a U-shaped heating element, 8-3/8" x 2-5/8" x 1/4" dia with a 107 Ohm Resistance and rubber grommets above the 3/16" wide power terminals. When CJ heated it up to 120F, those grommets got gooey, so he says use lower voltage DC.SHARE
It's a nonpolarized bimetal heat sensor, 1/2" long with rubber sleeves and 6" long leads. It's also mysterious, because when used as a thermocouple multimeter input, it reads approx 94° in nearly boiling water but approx 170° in ambient air. Wethinks some sort of inversion or scaling is going on, but a person with your smarts will surely figure it out.
It's a nonpolarized bimetal heat sensor, 1/2" long with rubber sleeves and 6" long leads. It's also mysterious, because when used as a thermocouple multimeter input, it reads approx 94° in nearly boiling water but approx 170° in ambient air. Wethinks some sort of inversion or scaling is going on, but a person with your smarts will surely figure it out.
High tech comes to Am Sci & Surp!! It is here in the form of a
Peltier junction, a thermo-electric device that translates electric
power into heat, and perversely, into cool. Apply current at 15VDC to
the gizmos and they extract thermal energy from one face, thereby cooling
it. The heat is dumped onto the other face, thereby heating it.
Please note: you must use a heat sink on the hot side or the junction
will fry itself, since it can quickly create a 65° C temperature
differential in a no load situation. Stack two, or build a cascade to
increase the thermal differential created. Or run it backwards. Apply
heat or cold to the relevant face and produce a current. Amazing for
science projects and experiments. Practical for coffee warmers, beer
coolers and mini-refrigerator or warming oven applications. They come with a datasheet. Large is 1-9/16" sq. x 3/16" thick and draws 6A and small is 1-1/4" sq. x 3/16" thick and draws 3A.
High tech comes to Am Sci & Surp!! It is here in the form of a
Peltier junction, a thermo-electric device that translates electric
power into heat, and perversely, into cool. Apply current at 15VDC to
the gizmos and they extract thermal energy from one face, thereby cooling
it. The heat is dumped onto the other face, thereby heating it.
Please note: you must use a heat sink on the hot side or the junction
will fry itself, since it can quickly create a 65° C temperature
differential in a no load situation. Stack two, or build a cascade to
increase the thermal differential created. Or run it backwards. Apply
heat or cold to the relevant face and produce a current. Amazing for
science projects and experiments. Practical for coffee warmers, beer
coolers and mini-refrigerator or warming oven applications. They come with a datasheet. Large is 1-9/16" sq. x 3/16" thick and draws 6A and small is 1-1/4" sq. x 3/16" thick and draws 3A.
Return with us now to those thrilling days of 1977, which is when this Pyrex-topped heating element was made as part of a stovetop hotplate. Measures 10-3/8” x 5-3/8” x 3/16” thick, and draws 120W at 120VAC with a thermal cutoff, neon indicator lamp, 1.5 ohm power resistors on both legs as fuses, and 4-1/2” leads. Will heat up to at least 230F. Made in the USA by Sierracin/Thermal Systems, part #976-4935-3.
Return with us now to those thrilling days of 1977, which is when this Pyrex-topped heating element was made as part of a stovetop hotplate. Measures 10-3/8” x 5-3/8” x 3/16” thick, and draws 120W at 120VAC with a thermal cutoff, neon indicator lamp, 1.5 ohm power resistors on both legs as fuses, and 4-1/2” leads. Will heat up to at least 230F. Made in the USA by Sierracin/Thermal Systems, part #976-4935-3.