You need a dehumidistat to sense the relative humidity and turn on a fan or whatever dehumidifies you. This one is from Broan-NuTone and is rated for up to a 10A load at 120VAC and 5A at 240VAC but can be used with a low-voltage (24V or less) fan. Use the clearly marked, easy-to-use dial to set your humidity anywhere from 20 to 80 percent, with full on and off settings as well. Housing measures 4-1/2” x 2-3/4” x 1-1/2” with keyed 5/32” mounting holes. Comes with mounting hardware, Lo-V terminals and wiring instructions. Made in Canada by humid Canadians. Broan #DH100W.
High tech comes to Am Sci & Surp!! It is here in the form of a
Peltier junction, a thermo-electric device that translates electric
power into heat, and perversely, into cool. Apply current @ 3-12 VDC to
the gizmo and it extracts thermal energy from one face, thereby cooling
it. The heat is dumped onto the other face, thereby heating it.
Please note: you must use a heat sink on the hot side or the junction
will fry itself, since it can quickly create a 65° C temperature
differential in a no load situation. Stack two, or build a cascade to
increase the thermal differential created. Or run it backwards. Apply
heat or cold to the relevant face and produce a current. Amazing for
science projects and experiments. Practical for coffee warmers, beer
coolers and mini-refrigerator or warming oven applications. Comes with
instructions. Large is 1-9/16" sq. x 3/16" thick.
It's a nonpolarized bimetal heat sensor, 1/2" long with rubber sleeves and 6" long leads. It's also mysterious, because when used as a thermocouple multimeter input, it reads approx 94° in nearly boiling water but approx 170° in ambient air. Wethinks some sort of inversion or scaling is going on, but a person with your smarts will surely figure it out.
From Therm-O-Disc, this thermal cut-off switch is N/C (normally closed) by definition. (Thermal cut-offs are what keep your coffeepot from burning your house down.) This one shuts down between 221°F (105°C) and 248°F (120°C) and measures 5/8" dia x 9/16" thick, with (2) axial terminals.
To heat what is anybody's guess, but it's a U-shaped heating element, 8-3/8" x 2-5/8" x 1/4" dia with a 107 Ohm Resistance and rubber grommets above the 3/16" wide power terminals. When CJ heated it up to 120F, those grommets got gooey, so he says use lower voltage DC.
This 120V 1385W J-shaped heating element hit 750 degrees before it scorched our test bench, so we turned it off before it burned the place down. Measures 8-1/4" long x 1-5/8" wide across the elements x 5/16" with 1/4" terminals past threaded ends. We believe these were made to live inside hot-water heaters. UL recognized.
Dry heat is for deserts. This handy little non-electronic humidifier is made to keep you from drying out in the living room this winter. It’s simple, really, just a 10” x 7” x 2-1/4” thick white plastic frame with little feet holding a hunk of open-cell foam that you soak with water and place on a register vent, radiator or in front of a baseboard heater. Presto, instant humidity.
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